Long before selfies on social profiles, people had cameos, which are miniature portraits carved in stone, proudly worn as jewellery. But these cameos weren’t just accessories; they were pieces of art.
Cameo jewelry has been around for thousands of years now, dating as far back as the ancient civilizations of Greece and Rome, which adored carving gods and goddesses or heroes in semi-precious stones.
Later, during the Renaissance period, cameos reappeared. By the 18th and 19th centuries, cameos were the epitome of Victorian refinement: pendants, brooches, and rings containing dainty lady’s profiles, mythological figures, or sentimental vignettes like hearts and flowers.
Even decades on, cameos are a collector’s treasure, each possessing not just historical, but also monetary worth. Let’s take a look at some real examples and understand how to spot antique cameos.
14 Rare Valuable Antique Cameos Jewelry Pieces Worth Money
The following examples are of real antique cameos that have been sold in auctions and online sales.
1. Victorian 18K Diamond Carved Hard Stone Cameo Pendant
- Brand: Unmarked
- Manufacturing Period: 1830s-1900s
- Material: 18K Gold, Diamond & Hard Stone
- Item: Pendant
This is the most expensive piece, and for good reason. It’s carved from hard stone (likely agate), which requires much more skill than shell carving. Then, there is an 18K gold setting with diamonds that makes it a luxury piece. Such Victorian-era cameos with this level of craftsmanship are rare finds, fetching thousands!
2. 14K Gold Coral Cameo Brooch
- Brand: Unmarked
- Material: 14K Gold, Carol, Pearl
- Item: Pendant/Brooch
This expensive piece shows why antique coral cameos are so valuable. Coral was particularly coveted during the Victorian period, and authentic, highly carved coral cameos from that era are growing rarer.
Plus, the 14K gold setting with intricate details and the craftsmanship of the carving all make it worth its hefty price of almost $2,000!
3. Victorian Carved Amethyst Cameo Pendant Pin
- Brand: Unmarked
- Material: 14K Gold, Amethyst, Pearl, Enamel
- Item: Pendant/Pin
This striking Victorian piece features a cameo carved from amethyst, a semi-precious stone that’s much more valuable than shell. Hard stone cameos like this required exceptional skill to carve and were luxury items; no wonder this piece went for $1,300!
Besides, the addition of pearls, enamel work, and 14K gold setting also adds to its massive worth. Amethyst cameos from the Victorian era are rare finds because the stone was expensive and few were made compared to shell versions.
4. Neoclassical Greek Gods in Chariots Shell Cameo Bracelet
- Brand: Unmarked
- Manufacturing Era: 1920s-1930s
- Material: 14K Gold, Shell
- Item: Bracelet
This impressive 7.5-inch bracelet features multiple shell cameos depicting Greek gods in chariots, a true example of the neoclassical revival style. The 14K gold links and large size make this a substantial piece. Mythological cameo bracelets are highly sought after!
5. Large Gutta Victorian Cameo Brooch Pendant
- Brand: Unmarked
- Manufacturing Period: 1860s-1880s
- Material: Gutta Percha
- Item: Brooch/Pendant
This massive 3-inch Victorian cameo is made of gutta-percha, a natural rubber substance that was molded and carved as cameos between 1860 and 1880. Gutta-percha was utilized for mourning jewelry because it was dark in color and cheaper than jet.
But, today these cameos are valued at $1,000 or more, especially with precious metal trimmings, like this one with 14K gold. Victorian gutta-percha pieces are also collectible today because the material eventually became brittle, and many examples didn’t survive.
6. 14K Gold Abalone Shell Cameo Ring
- Brand: Unbranded
- Manufacturing Period: Mid 20th century
- Material: Gold and Abalone Shell
- Item: Ring
Abalone shell cameos are less mainstream than traditional shell cameos, and the natural iridescence of the abalone means that each piece is unique. The rainbow colors that shift in light give abalone cameos a distinct look that collectors love.
When set in 14K gold, these pieces combine the organic beauty of the shell with precious metal, creating pieces that are beautiful and valuable.
7. Gold Onyx Cameo Ring
- Brand: Hallmarked Only
- Manufacturing Period: 1870-1890
- Material: Gold and Onyx
- Item: Ring
This small Victorian onyx cameo ring demonstrates that even modest pieces can be valuable when they’re genuine antiques with proper hallmarks. Hard stone cameos were always more expensive, and Victorian examples in good condition command premium prices.
The fact that it’s hallmarked (officially stamped with gold purity marks) adds authenticity and value. Additionally, the original Victorian jewelry box makes this a complete historical package.
8. Edwardian Gold Greed God Hermes Mercury Cameo Pin
- Brand: Unbranded
- Manufacturing Period: 1900-1920s
- Material: 14 Gold, Diamond, Jet
- Item: Pendant/Pin
This beautiful Edwardian piece features French jet, a form of black glass that enjoyed popularity for being used in mourning jewelry after the period of Queen Victoria. The cameo is of the messenger god (Mercury or Hermes) with a winged hat and caduceus staff.
French jet was often used as a more affordable alternative to real jet, and pieces with mythological subjects like Mercury were fashionable. The 14K gold and diamond accents make this a quality piece from the early 1900s period.
9. M&M Scognamiglio Signed 14K Pink Cameo Pendant
- Brand: M&M Scognamiglio
- Material: 14K Gold, Pink Stone
- Item: Heart-shaped Pendant
The Scognamiglio is a renowned Italian cameo carver family that has been crafting exquisite work for centuries. This hand-sculpted M&M pink coral (also known as angel skin coral) cameo is mounted in 14K gold.
Italian coral cameos are so prized because they are carved out of natural coral rather than shell; therefore, more costly. And Scognamiglio’s original signature makes the piece more genuine and desirable.
10. Wedgwood Blue Jasperware Cupid Cameo Brooch
- Brand: Wedgwood
- Material: Blue Jasperware
- Item: Brooch Pin
This piece features Wedgwood’s famous blue jasperware with a white cupid figure, set in 14K gold. Wedgwood has been making these cameos since the 1700s, and they’re known for their crisp, detailed relief work.
The blue and white pattern is the epitome of Wedgwood, and when it’s encased in real gold, it’s considerably more pricey. Also, Victorian cupid motifs are popular with collectors, making it worth the price!
11. Gold Hand Carved Brooch By GW Palmer & Son Jewelry
- Brand: G.W. Palmer
- Manufacturing Period: 19th to 20th century
- Material: Gold and Shell
- Item: Brooch
This is a GW Palmer & Son Art Deco brooch from an early-to-mid 20th-century jewelry company. While this appears to be a fine shell cameo, the original box and the maker’s mark make this special. Jewelry boxes often get discarded, so finding pieces with their original presentation cases is becoming increasingly rare and valuable.
12. 14K Gold Three Muses Cameo Pendant
- Brand: Unbranded
- Manufacturing Period: 20th century
- Material: Gold and Shell
- Item: Pendant
Three Graces cameos have been highly desired by collectors, especially in precious settings of 14K gold or higher, which can go for $300 to $800+!
Three Graces cameos have been highly desired by collectors, especially in precious settings of 14K gold or higher, which can go for $300 to $800+!
13. Gold Soldier’s Cameo Men’s Ring
- Brand: Unbranded
- Manufacturing Period: 1940s-1960s
- Material: Black onyx and Gold
- Item: Ring
This men’s cameo ring from the mid-20th century features a Roman soldier carved into black onyx and set in 10K gold. Men’s cameo rings became popular after WWII, often featuring military or classical themes, with black onyx being a favorite material. Based on condition and size, such rings can fetch $300 to $800+!
14. Antique Lava Cameo Gold & Sterling Earrings
- Brand: Unbranded
- Manufacturing Period: 1880s
- Material: Gold, Sterling, Lava Stone
- Item: Earrings
These 1880 lava stone cameos are a perfect example of the Victorian tourist trade from Italy. Lava cameos were sculpted from volcanic tuff near Mount Vesuvius and sold to Grand Tour visitors as upscale souvenirs. The combination of gold and sterling with lava shows quality craftsmanship from the 1880s period.
How to Identify Authentic Antique Cameo Jewelry?
Identifying authentic cameo jewelry is more about unlocking its history. Each piece tells you a different story, whether it was hand-carved or molded, a Victorian piece or a modernist work.
This section will help you develop a keen eye for true antique cameo craftsmanship, by materials, styles, and other key signs!
The Materials
Antique cameos were made of different materials like shell, hardstones, coral, or Lava, but with time, their compositions evolved. So observing these materials shall provide you with the first clue of identification. Here are the most important ones:
1. Shell Cameos
Most common in the Victorian era, Shell cameos was mostly made of Conch, Helmet, or Cowrie shells. The colors of these shells are usually in white relief on pink, orange, or brown. These pieces are often lighter and warmer than other materials.
Collecting Tip: Under bright light, an authentic shell will show subtle growth lines and gradation of color layers.
2. Hardstone Cameos
This dense material was a favorite for Renaissance cameos. It feels distinctly cool to the touch, and its carved lines stand out with striking clarity. You can often find them in sharp color contrasts like black gem with white relief, sardonyx’s brown and white bands.
3. Lava Cameos
A 19th-century, Italian-based material that features low color contrast. An authentic lava will typically show irregular, tiny holes, unlike any modern uniform remakes. This material is also known as Vesicular Basalt because of its uneven, dull finish.
4. Coral Cameos
Jewelry made of this material was mostly popular in Mediterranean workshops, from the 19th to the 20th century. The hues of these coral works are typically found in red-orange, light pink, or cream.
5. Ivory and Bone Cameos
These are among the earliest cameo materials from the 18th and 19th centuries. You would find genuine ivory or bone cameos by patterns of crossed lines, sometimes referred to as cross-hatchings or engine turnings.
6. Glass Cameos
Glass cameos are molded rather than carved, which became popular in the 19th and 20th centuries. While they lack the depth of shell or stone, their vivid colors and affordability made them widely accessible for vintage jewelry makers.
Carving Details and Quality
The heart of a cameo lies in its carving, be it fine undercutting, depth, and delicate lines that reveal the hand of a skilled artisan. So let’s analyse these elements so that you don’t miss out on a rare piece.
On authentic antique cameos from the pre-1900s, you will see subtle irregularities and fine tool marks from the hand-carving process. The shapes of these pieces will also come with the natural curves of the materials.
The relief, height, and depth will also have some variations, and no two pieces will have the same geometric precision.
On the other hand, machine-made cameos usually have an overly smooth, almost snow-like surface with perfect uniformity. They lack the deep undercutting like the hand-carved pieces that give a lifelike 3D shadow.
The reliefs are usually monotonous, and all the jewelry appears identical and repetitive.
Makers’ Marks & Hallmarks
A jewellery with its maker’s mark is like icing on a cake. It automatically makes the pieces credible, easy to verify, and most importantly, trustworthy. This comes in various forms, be it the maker’s name, hallmarks, year, and so on.
These impressed marks are usually found beneath the cameo, on the back, inside pendants, or within openable settings. So here’s a list of some known makers and their imprints who made such cameo pieces.
- Giovanni Pichler (Rome, mid-18th C.) – One of the most celebrated gem engravers of his time, his cameos are usually signed as “G.PICHLER” or simply “PICHLER.”
- Nathaniel Marchant (London, 1790s–1816) – Known for his neoclassical designs, he often engraved “N.MARCHANT” on his pieces.
- Johann Lorenz Natter (Stuttgart, early–mid-18th C.) – A master of portrait cameos who marked “NATTER” in most of his work.
- Giuseppe Girometti (Florence/Rome, 1779–1851) – Famous for fine detailing, he signed most of his cameos as “G.GIROMETTI.”
- Pietro Girometti (Florence/Rome, 1811–1859) – Son of Giuseppe, who continued the tradition; his signature reads “P.GIROMETTI.”
- Benedetto Pistrucci (London, early 19th C.) – Best remembered for the St. George coin design, his cameos might show imprints of “BPISTRUCCI” or “B. PISTRUCCI.”
- Niccolò Amastini (Italy, late 18th–mid-19th C.) – An exquisite engraver who normally signed his work with only “AMASTINI.”
- Joseph Edgar Boehm (Vienna/Britain, 1860s–1890s) – Famously the sculptor of Queen Victoria, attempt to search for his stamps which read “JEB.”
- Georges Bissinger (France, 1860–1890) – Best known for beautiful French carving, his pieces typically bear the mark of “BISSINGER.”
- James Ronca (Switzerland/Italy, mid-19th C.) – Known across Europe for his portrait cameos, he typically signed his pieces with “RONCA.”
Along with the brand’s name, you’ll often find hallmarks that provide material purity and origin. When it comes to American cameos from the 19th–20th century, you’ll usually see marks like 10K, 14K, and 18K (for gold) and “925” for Sterling.
In Europe, the hallmarks look a bit different; for instance, 375 means 9K (quite common in British cameo jewels ), 585 stands for 14K, and 750 indicates a higher-end 18K gold, which was especially popular in premium European cameos.
Setting Type & Construction Clues
Authentic cameos will often reveal their age and origin by the way they’re made. The settings, joint details, the mechanisms, and all such construction features offer reliable clues to spot real pieces. Let’s understand them below:
Hinge & Clasp Mechanisms –
Antique cameo jewelry, specifically brooches and pendants, had variations in their hinges and clasps over time. For instance –
- Pre-1820 – Brooches had single-tube hinges with wire pins fixed to the backplate. The clasp was a simple hook.
- 1820–1870 – Makers started using multiple-tube hinges, and the clasp design became longer.
- Post-1870s – The barrel or hinged pin style was introduced, along with the roll-over safety clasp, which offered more secure fastening with chain loops.
Backplate and Wax Cray Backs –
Genuine antique cameos usually have solid silver or gold backplates, thicker than 0.5-1 mm. Very thin or hollow backs usually indicate later pieces.
On the other hand, many early Italian shell cameos were reinforced with a thin layer of red or brown “biscuit” wax to protect the shell. Modern fakes, however, often use epoxy or uniform resin layers instead.
Catch Plate –
In antique cameo brooches, the catch plate (a little part that holds the pin in place) was usually made from a small metal strip raised just above the backplate, with a rounded end to lock the pin tip.
Modern reproductions often use catch plates that are flat and stamped out of sheet, which makes them look less refined.
Bezel & Prong Settings –
Real hardstone and shell cameos are usually held in place with a handmade metal rim, called a bezel. Since it’s made by hand, the rim can look a little uneven, and sometimes you’ll even see tiny blobs of solder where it’s joined.
In addition, in a few ancient Victorian and Edwardian works, rather than a rim, little hand-twisted spikes or prongs were utilized, typically six to eight of them to secure the cameo. If those prongs all look too perfect or like they were pressed by a machine, that’s a sign it’s probably a newer reproduction.
Mount Decoration and Metalwork –
In the late 1800s, craftsmen decorated mounts with fine wire scrolls (filigree) and tiny beads (granulation). Each piece was carefully made and soldered one by one. In modern pieces, these details are usually cast or molded, looking flatter.
Safety Chains & Loops –
In Victorian and Edwardian times, many cameo brooches had safety chains (a small chain to keep the brooch from falling off if the clasp opens). These were attached to small handmade wire loops soldered near the clasp.
5 Things That Can Make Antique Cameo Jewelry Valuable?
Valuation of cameo jewellery isn’t just about the price tag; it’s about assessing its unique features, age, the craftsmanship, its condition, and a lot more. Here are 5 factors that will determine a vintage cameo’s real value:
1. Age & History
An older cameo, even if quite worn off, will often be considered rare because of its historical value. That said, ancient Renaissance cameos from the pre-18th century command premium prices.
Similarly, 19th-century pieces are typically worth more than 20th-century cameos, featuring modern and cheap materials, like bakelite and artificial stones.
To date an antique cameo, you can use clues like markings and design details. But, not every old piece is really “old;” some are made to look old. So, check the following signs of age:
- Fine, irregular hairline cracks on shell cameos (due to the expansion and contraction of the material)
- Less translucence (aged shells) developing a subtle matte finish
- Subtle color shifts (pink shells might turn orange over time)
- Subtle surface patina on stone cameos
- Natural oxidation on gold and silver settings
2. Carving Quality
The sharpness and precision of the carving can significantly impact a cameo’s value. Fine cameos display lifelike detail, delicate hair strands, defined facial features, and depth in the folds of clothing, and collectors love them for that.
Pay attention to the following details:
Relief Depth –
Deeply carved figures that have high relief, just like a 3D structure, are often valued more. Additionally, undercuts in crisps shall also produce natural shadowing beneath the features like the hair strands, drape fold, etc.
Detailed Work –
Authentic pieces with detailed work, like noticeable eyelids, tear ducts, or expressive mouths, show high-end work, making these pieces more worthy.
Proportion –
If you find balanced head-to-body ratios or harmonious scale in the features of the cameos, then these are authentic pieces of an earlier time. Craftsmen from the pre-19th century and before ensured that their work had well-defined proportions.
Surface finishing –
Seamless blending of relief layers is highly sought after by collectors. Cameo jewelry having no abrupt edges or tool marks indicates original production.
3. Setting Quality
In addition to the cameo itself, the setting also has a huge impact on value in several ways:
- Metal Type and Purity – Gold cameo pieces, especially 14K and 18K, are considered more valuable than silver. And silver is more valued than base metals.
- Craftsmanship – Pieces of decorative work, heavy engraving, enamel, or jewels can provide the additional touch and value to the cameo.
- Originality – Ideal settings are original, untouched ones; however, proper restorations can be okay with some, but modern repairs generally devalue it.
- Hallmarks & Maker’s Marks – Stamps and famous workshop marks prove authenticity, so they typically boost the value of the antique cameo jewelry.
4. Condition
Like all other antique jewelry pieces, condition is a critical factor in the valuation of antique cameos, because serious damage can often reduce a piece’s value by up to 15-30%.
So, whether buying or selling, look for these red flags:
- Chips or cracks, specifically in vulnerable materials like shell & stone cameos
- Deep cracks damaging the structure
- Flattening or loss of carving details in the cameo
- Replaced or extensively repaired mounts
But, some things are considerable too, such as:
- Light surface crazings or hairline cracks
- Subtle metal corrosion or scratches in the mount without any structural damage
- Tarnishing in metal settings
5. Provenance
Cameo jewelry was extremely popular in the early days, and everyone wore it! So, pieces with rich history are considered valuable.
Make sure to look for original boxes as well as authentic documentation, such as original sales receipts, listings in auction catalogs, exhibition records from museums (if displayed), or any estate papers that connect a cameo to an aristocratic or celebrity.
Such pieces of proof may add 10 to 15 percent to your original cameo’s value.
Since you have now gained all the knowledge about antique cameo jewelry, it is time for you to go treasure hunting. Do make sure that you use these easy tips in order to identify the originals and assess their price before selling or buying!
